So this repair was a pain in the neck. Literally.
Remove the trailing arms as described in the manual (or just start unbolting things until it comes off, as I usually do) and then remove the rubber from the inner part of the bushing sleeve. Normally you would use a press to get the sleeve out with the bushing intact but I used a polyurethane bushing from energy suspensions as a replacement. They didn’t require you to remove the entire bushing. You also have to get the rubber off of the pin as you reuse that in the new bushing. In all it took about 8 hours over two Saturday’s to get the parts cleaned off, the new bushings in place, and get the car put back together.
You can see the metal bracket and giant bolt used to force the new bushing into place. What you don’t see is the 1/8″ thick metal channel on the bottom side. I bought the channel because I could not find a washer as big as the instructions outlined but I drilled a hole through the channel to create a plate which I had to double-up because it was too thin. I then found the 1/4″ thick bracket that is on top and drilled a hole through the middle. Grease IS KEY! They provide some really sticky grease but had to add some white lithium grease on top of that to get it to slide through. I assume the thicker grease will help it stay in place long term.
Here is the part at Summit Racing:
You can use a brass hammer and knock it out from the INSIDE, while the arm is hanging. DO NOT mess with the toe adjuster leave it in place. Measure the depth of the part and mark the position of the metal attaching piece in the center of the bushing on the trailing arm so you can put it back the way it was. So knock it out from the inside and back the same way it came out!